Sani Tred Vs Drylock.
Posted by Danpereda in Home Improvement Mar 6th, 2008 | 21 responses
Sani Tred Vs Drylock.
In my previous post I told you my story of water in my basement. After fixing the gutter on the back of my house my water problems were mostly fixed, but My corner basement wall does still get damp/wet to the touch.
My plan was to use Sani-Tred in the corners and at the floor to wall area, and use Dry Lock on the rest of the wall.
First up : Wall prep. I took a wire wheel on a grinder to all the concrete block. This was a very loud and dirty process. Then Shop vaced the whole area. Wall was DRY.
Sani Tred is a 2 part rubber epoxy goo. That means you have to mix it with a hardener before you can apply it. And unless you are going to be using it all at one time then you need do this in a separate container. Mixing and applying this mess is difficult. It is like trying to paint caulking on the wall. It is thick and sticky stuff. Forget the roller, just use a stiff brush. Surprising the smell wasn’t bad at all. This takes a while to apply and is not like normal painting. Anything this stuff touches will need to be trashed, don’t even thing about reusing the brush and roller. After drying there seems to be an oily residue on the wall. Coverage: there is no way your going to get 240 sq ft out of one gallon, maybe 100 sq ft for one coat.
Dry Lock is a milkshake thick paint. No mixing things together needed. It is easy to apply, but it still works better with a brush for the first coat. It smells worse than Sani Tred. This is much more like normal painting. Clean up is quick and easy
Summary
I don’t feel that Sani Tred is a Consumer DIY product. It is difficult to prepare, and apply. That said just looking at the final product, Sani Tred does seem superior in quality. If you have serious water issues then seek a professional and maybe have a pro apply the Sani-tred for you. Drylock was cheaper and much easier for the majority of my application. I would not buy Sani-tred again to do a large area. I will have to wait for the next hard rain before I have full results.
See Some follow ups on post #2
21 Responses to “Sani Tred Vs Drylock.”
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Interesting points about the Sanitred and the Drylock. You noted not much odour from the Sanitred. However, did the smell linger for some time. I await your comments, especially now that you had some time to test the products.
I have to say that I have not had water in the basement after using both products, but it has not been that long. We had some heavy rain with with not water penetration that I can see. If I would do it again I would only go with Drylock.
A wire wheel is not recommended. A wire wheel will leave metallic streaks on the block/concrete.
Sani-Tred is not an epoxy and does not use a “hardener”. Sani-Tred is a type of polyurethane and comes with an ‘Accelerator’. Unlike epoxies, Sani-Tred does not require a hardener in order to cure. Sani-Tred will cure on its own without anything … it just takes longer to do it in comparison to using the supplied Accelerator.
If the temp is low then Sani-Tred will be thicker because it is ‘solvent-free’. That is why it is low odor. If the material is thick then you simply thin it as per the instructions. It’s very easy to do and it glides right on.
You cannot expect the materials to cover 240 sq’ per gal on their own … you must distribute it yourself at the proper rate of use. The tool you were using (a brush) is the reason you were not able to apply it at the proper rate of use. A roller is MUCH easier, more effective, and more efficient. You can always expect a brush to apply anything thicker.
The application is very easy as long as you use the right tools for the job. You wouldn’t use a brush to paint a room, but you would certainly use a brush for places where a roller is out of the question.
any water yet?
I’m thinking of doing sani tred. I don’t care if it’s hard, if it keeps my basement dry, it’s well worth any amount of work.
It has been almost a year since I have used the SaniTred product. I can not longer say it was the product that helped with the water. One of my gutters recently started leaking and water entered my basement. After reading alot. Do what the pros say and Fight the water from outside is the only way.
I have used Sani-Tred to waterproof my pool with excellent results after 2 years now. I had a handy man install it because I did not have the time to do it myself and I am not so good with those things anyway. Last winter my cousin basement started to leak so I am helping him doing research on the internet to find an inexpensive way to waterproof his basement and I thought of Sanitred which gave me great results before but I wanted to know if there is something better or cheaper out there for my cousin’s leaking basement?
To all concerned for waterproofing:
I used Sani-Tred on the walls in my basement, and will be doing the floors once it warms up! Yes, the stuff is Very hard to roll UNLESS you put about 4 oz or so of Xylene to 1 gallon of the Permaflex. It thins it out enough to make it super easy to roll. Unfortunately, it will turn your basement into a smelly place. You’ll need to leave the house and air it out for 6 hours more or less. It sucks, but that’s the only easy way to apply the Permaflex I have discovered. Sanitred is the best out there [I dont' work for them]. Like mad, trust me, if applied correctly, it will waterproof. My friend’s dad owns a concrete company and they use it for waterproofings as well.
we are considering using sani tred… we have concrete block walls which have been painted over in our basement… the problem we have right now is mold (which im sure some of you have experienced if you have had water in basement), its a pain to keep killing it… any suggestions on how to fight the mold issue or how to remove paint from concrete block we are thinking of using a grinder with wire wheel… does your block have to be bone dry before applying sani tred, someone help getting frustrated every time we get heavy rain.
After a lot of research, I used the sanitred in my basement. I used the Permaflex on the horizontal and vertical surfaces, and used LRB with the thickener in the corners. Then, over it all with a second coat of Permaflex. I purchased and used a Bosch cement grinder to prep the surface (surface prep I believe is key to any product like this). I used a propane torch to dry out any moist concrete. Don’t try to paint over anything wet.
Anyhow, lots of work. However, it has now been 2 years and wherever I put the stuff (on 2 of 4 sides of the basement, and on about 1/2 of the floor around the perimeter) there is ZERO water coming in. It still comes in if the power goes out (sump fails) or hydraulic pressure pushes it up through the cracks that aren’t covered…
But, it is as perfect as a product can be I imagine. It is expensive, and time consuming to prep the surface, but well worth the time! I’m going to buy more and finish it out, and I have no doubt that I’ll have zero water down there once I do.
I am just a homeowner in new england, don’t work for them or anything – just tried it out and it works great.
I recommend it – but prep the surface, listen to people that have installed it, don’t be afraid to call them – and understand it isn’t a ‘quick fix’. It takes work, but it will work!
I haven’t used Drylok. With a 10 year warranty, lots of happy customers, and an affordable pricetag, it seems to be a decent solution if you are not looking to permanently solve the problem. In my mind, Drylok is similar to the Xypex coating product, or Thoroseal.
However, if you are going to finish the basement, building your fountain pièce de résistance, or just don’t want to have to potentially strip and reapply someday, I would recommend something more permanent such as Sanitred (or ArmorGuard looks promising – haven’t used it).
In terms of durability, when properly applied, Sanitred stands a chance of outlasting the human race
It is flexible, impervious to hydrostatic pressure (water pushing on it from the outside), and extremely abrasion resistant. One of my architect buddies was familiar with it, and in his opinion there really aren’t many similar products available. Whether that is true or not, I have found it to be a reliable product.
If you have paint or a coating to remove, the fastest way is to use an angle grinder with a silicon carbide disc, or if that’s unavailable, a sandpaper flap disc is 70% as good. Be sure to use a respirator mask. Really.
Sandblasting is also an option but is a large or huge mess/health issue, depending on the blast media used.
Apply Sanitred’s Permaflex with a roller. Thin the product with Xylene 10% unless the weather is very hot. Next is the patching compound for any cracks and joints in the surface, then another coat of Permaflex.
Sanitred’s Permaflex coating will develop an oily film around a day after being applied. This film must be removed prior to applying the patching material (“LRB”) or applying the next coat of Permaflex. See their instructions – you use Xylene or blue Dawn soap.
Me: I use Sanitred products for my water art and fountains as a public installation artist (Sanitred will be used in my first public art installation at Arlington’s Cascade Valley Hospital, going in January ’10). I also use it for restoration work as part of my fountain design/build/repair company, FlowMotion Art LLC.
Hi i just built a pool out of blocks and I would like to tile it but I want to put a sealent on it that I can tile over
any help would be greatly appreciated
I am also interested in the Sani-Tred like many of you. I applied Drylock about 12 years ago on all my basement walls and was pleased for about 7 years. Then I guess the hydrostatic pressure in two areas, one around my sump and the other beneath a window, eventually pushed the drylock off the wall leaving both areas wet and messy. So now I’m looking at finishing my basement and something that will work on my two problem areas. Like Dan in the first post I’m considering doing a combination by adding Sani-Tred to the problem spots.
I have begun using the product for a,leaky basement. Mixed reviews so far.
I probably didn’t do enough surface prep, and also didn’t clean off the oily film before applying the second layers.
I still have a distinct odor coming from the product in the basement..Wondering if this will be reduced by cleaning with the Dawn blue soap and removing the oily film?
Did anyone else encounter the “smell” issue??
Could just be my user error..
Has anyone with a stone foundation tried doing this? how would I need to prep our stone (I don’t think a grinder would be the best way to go about it)? If anyone has tried this, any feedback would be more than welcome. Thanks!
[...] Well, It has bee 2 years since I coated half my basement walls with Sani Tred and Half Drylock. You can read that post Here: Sani Tred Vs Drylock. [...]
Dan’s posting about Sani-Tred is misleading. And no, I don’t work for them but I was perusing their literature to see about using their products for my own basement. Sani-Tred is a 4 step system using their products, Permaflex and LRB/TAV. The Permaflex is their product that is comparable to DryLok. The LRB/TAV is a liquid rubber that needs an activator, so it’s a two part sealant. First you clean the walls/floor, apply a coat of Permaflex, then seal cracks with LRB/TAV then recoat with Permaflex. From reading Dan’s posting it would seem he only used the LRB/TAV.
My own basement suffers from small leakage from hydrostatic pressure after the ground is fully saturated – a rare occurrence. Because of existing wall construction, I can’t use Sani-Tred everywhere so for my purposes it makes more sense to try to just control the water as it seeps in. I can do some sealing with Sani-Tred at the wall/floor joint and would like to put channels in the floor to divert the water to an existing sump pump. Since any remaining water that isn’t pumped out drains through the floor, I’d like to keep that feature and Sani-Tred on the floor would negate it. Then I will put in a raised floor (2″) with removable sections for access and help drying out if necessary.
I did use LRB/TAV. but the water is coming thu the walls not from the wall floor joint.
In response to Jim’s post from Jan 29, 2010. I used the Sani-tred product on a dry basement wall. I still seem to get some water that comes in thru it, but not as much as before it was applied. My biggest issue however is the lingering smell that has remained in the basement. There are 4 old wood windows that really don’t open, so not alot of ventilation other than the door at the top of the stairs. I called Sani-tred and was told to wash the walls with Dawn soap, but no difference….. the product has cut down the amount of water, but the smell that is left is not worth using the product. As soon as the cellar door is opened there is a strong odor which resembles cat urine. There is no cat and the odor started after the sani-tred application…I am almost thinking of trying to put something over the sani-tred to see if it will stop the smell??
Permaflex worked for me the first thing I noticed was a drop in the humidity level It was above 70 now its below 50
I used Sanitred 6 years ago due to a crack in the wall and leaking from the cove. I LOVE it!! At the time I spent $1000 on Permaflex and LRB/TAV for 5 gallon buckets. Basement still does not leak. I put $40,000 in material since then in the basement. Yes I noted the oily film and the smell. difficult to ventilate the basement with those little windows. I cannot comment on DRYlock, never used. I am reading again about sanitred because my friend has water issues. I am 100% convinced of the product. Prep was a lot of work!! but once all done worth the trouble because water is more trouble!
I applied Drylock about 4 years ago. There was leakage in areas where I see it wasn’t applied completely. I also didn’t do a good enough job prepping the concrete, so now there are parts where the dry lock has lifted off. I’m considering Sani tred now, or maybe even dry lock again – and doing a much better job of prepping and following directions. Can I apply either of these over the dry lock from 4 years ago? Does dry lock need to be removed somehow first.
Wishing I had just done had it done properly the first time….